La Casa de Rafa

This afternoon I did one of the coolest things I have ever done in my life. EVER.

I went with Tio Alex and his brother Nathan to a restaurant called House of Rafa. It's the only one of its kind in the world! We went underground into a cave and ate in complete darkness. Like, no matter how long we sat there straining our eyes, we couldn't adjust because there just wasn't any light. Our waiters were blind which just made the experience that much cooler. We ordered the surprise appetizer and then the surprise main dish. We each got a different main dish and had a hilarious time figuring out what we were eating!

How darkness changes everything:

-you have no idea what you're eating...you just go for it. super scary when it feels slimy.

-after bringing your fork to your mouth 4 times with no food on it, you give up and eat with your hands.

-when something doesn't taste right or have a good texture, you spit it out. no one knows.

-when you're reaching for the condiments, you tend to stick your hand in the condiments.

-you have no idea how much is left on your plate, so you stop eating when you're full.

-when you share food, you don't politely stab it with a fork and pass it to another person. you grope around in the air for the other person's hand and stick whatever food you have in your hand, in theirs. I gave Tio Alex a grilled banana and he gave me a handful of rice.

-you leave the restaurant having no idea how much food is on your face and clothing. especially when you aren't nice to each other like we were and smear avocado on people's faces and squirt water at them...they never see it coming!

I highly recommend it!!! There are 11 "dark" restaurants around the world, so find one!!! (Casa de Rafa is the only dark restaurant in a cave with blind servers.)

Solo en el Dor

Only in the Dor do you walk up to get your student ID card and the woman tells you that she gave it to another gringa. "Don't you know Melissa?"

A of all, just because we're gringas doesn't mean we know each other.

B of all, why would you give my ID card (and a bunch of others I might add) to someone they clearly didn't belong to?

C of all, Melissa, why would you take them??

Score of the day: found a restaurant with CHEDDAR CHEESE!!!!! got a burrito (actually more of a tortilla sandwhich!)--2$ #winning

Also, apparently Thursdays are ladies' nights at the movie theater. Hunger Games round 2. #herewego

Estoy Emocionada

It took me about 2 months before I said this phrase: Estoy emocionada. It means "I'm excited!!" but I just couldn't get it out of my head that I was saying "I'm emotional". So, I just didn't say it. That's right, I'm so stubborn that for 2 months I wasn't excited about anything (in Spanish). But I eventually got over it and have embraced my emotional excitement.

ESTOY EMOCIONADA QUE IRME A LAS GALAPAGOS!!!

Phew. I feel so much better getting that off my chest!

Another English/Spanish mix up I had when I first got here: Estoy embarazada.

Doesn't mean I'm embarrassed. Nope. I'm pregnant.

Definitely not the same thing.

Tres Anos en el Bano

In the bathroom today was a sign that said, "The average person will spend 3 years of their life sitting in the bathroom."

And that made me think....the average person would mean boys and girls. So girls probably spend a lot more than 3 years sitting in the bathroom....the boys just threw off the average.

And that made me think some more...that's probably not taking into account gringos in the Dor. Gringos probably spend a lot more than a lot more than 3 years sitting in the bathroom.

And then I thought even more...I sure hope the other 90-some-odd years of my life are more exciting.

What did you do today? Was it fun, exciting, adventurous, bold, new? Cause your innards are wasting enough of your life...you should probably make the rest of it count.

El Fin de Semana Mezclada

Friday was a whirlwind. Anneke and I got up super early to go to the free aerobics class in the park with about 50 middle-aged and older Ecua women. It was hilarious, because half the time, they could do the moves better than we could. It's official: when it comes to aerobics I am a flailing, mixed-up, spaz. Awesome.

We grabbed some coffee and bread for breakfast (What am I going to do when there's no longer a panaderia on every corner? ....probably cry....and lose weight haha.), met up with Jenny and Kane, and took off for Parque Metropolitana which we had heard about but never seen. I am so sad that Friday was the first time I went there. To get to the park (which Jenny figured out is less of a park and more of the wilderness...#sorryimnotsorry) you have to walk up the mountain. Quito is situated between Pichincha and another mountain. All the buildings are in the valley and kind of creep their way up the mountains. So we climbed the mountain and reached the most beautiful place in all of Quito. Trees everywhere, birds, butterflies, no city sounds...just nature. It was gorgeous. I wanted to spend all day there (and probably will at some point).

We were supposed to meet Juliana, so Anneke and Jenny turned back, but I loved it so much that I stayed for another 10 minutes or so. When I couldn't put it off any longer, I turned back. Then it happened. The stupidity. "Hey, I know. Wouldn't it be fun to run back down the mountain and see if I can catch up with Jenny and Anneke?" It was actually really fun, but my legs are definitely feelin' it today! And unfortunately, I didn't catch up with them because they cheated and took a cab. But I was only 5 minutes behind them, so I'd say that's pretty good!

We hung out with Juliana for a few hours, got our nails done, and then headed home for lunch.

Later a bunch of us met up to watch Pride and Prejudice (Congratulations to Ben for watching it for the first time...most of it anyway. I'm proud of you.) and then headed out to Sports Planet where we once again sweet-talked the owner into illegally streaming the UNC game for us. Without Kendall, it was hard to watch--so many turnovers--but the team really stepped up, and Zeller was redonkulous (most likely because his name is Tyler and that instantly makes you a bad-ass baller...just sayin'), so we won in overtime. What up elite 8??! I don't think the table of Ohio fans liked us very much as we sang out alma mader, but we don't really care! And they looked at us super weird when we said "Go to hell Duke" at the end. Listen up everybody, we will always and forever say "Go to hell Duke" because no matter how badly we want to beat you, and no matter how important the game is that we just played, our hatred for them will be greater. Take it as a compliment, we like you too much to say it about you.

Saturday, I got up and made a cake for Anneke's birthday dinner, and then went to see The Hunger Games with Jenny. It was phenomenal. I felt like I'd had a work out when I left because my heart was racing and my arms and legs were sore because I was so tense with excitement. That is the first movie that I feel like has really done a book justice. It's much harder to watch than to read, but they did an amazing job staying true to the characters and the plot. AND it was filmed in NC!! Carolina....best in the world.

Last night we went to dinner for Anneke's birthday at this fancy Italian place with over 50 kinds of pizza. It was delicious and we finished it off with the cake I made! Great night.

Sorry for the lack of pictures. I figured Spring Break was coming and I was going to flood you with pictures then...so I'd give you a break this weekend.

La Marcha

Today was an indigenous march in Quito, so basically half the city was shut down and school was canceled. EXCEPT, I don't go to school in Quito. Cumbaya wasn't affected at all...so I had classes. Que chevs.

Anyway, these indigenous people live in a region of Ecuador that was recently contracted by the President to a Chinese mining company. The mine is going to affect their water supply, its taking over their land, and they probably won't receive many of the financial benefits of the mine at all. So, starting March 8th, they began walking...and walking...and walking some more...until they arrived in Quito today. Now that's impressive.

In my grammar class today we spent the whole time reading articles and talking about it, and then my teacher taught us the chants for both sides (there is also a counter-march organized by the government)..ya know like 1, 2, 3, 4 we don't want you here no more 5, 6, 7, 8 I'm so hungry, I wish I ate. Ok, so that's probably never been a protest cheer but you know what I mean. Anyway, we spent probably 5 minutes just shouting at each other, one side of the room chanting the indigenous cheer and the other side the government one--waving fists, angry faces...the whole shebang. Very entertaining let me assure you. But hey, that's just how we learn Spanish here in the Dor.

Sidenote #1: wore rain boots and it rained today. that never happens!

Sidenote #2: supporting k-butter here in the Dor.

El Hombre en el Bus

There's always something exciting on the bus to school. Vendors come through selling everything under the sun, on a beautiful day you can see everything in the valley in one of the best views the Dor can offer, and on days like today, you get an awesome surprise!

A man got on the bus today holding speakers, and out of nowhere he starts blasting a beat. Then comes the best part--a freestyle rap....in Spanish....about Jesus!! It was awesome! He talked about other things too in the rap, but the main point was to end war and embrace the redemption and reconciliation offered in Christ. That is, until he went around collecting money....when he saw me and my friend Kane were gringos, he started rapping about Michael Jackson coming back from the dead. Not exactly Biblical, unless MJ is a modern-day Lazarus. You never know.

Stanley Plano, Cotapaxi, y Sorpresas

Irish you a Happy St. Patrick's Day!

This weekend has been a whirlwind. It all started with Flat Stanley. For those of you who don't know who that is, 1. feel sad that you missed out on a crucial part of childhood and 2. look it up. A boy named Eddi sent me his Flat Stanley to live in and experience the Dor for a few weeks, so Anneke, Stanley, and I headed back to Mitad del Mundo and took some pictures.

Later, we caught up with Jenny to watch the UNC game, but it wasn't showing. Disappointed, we didn't know what to do. So...I got a tattoo. Sorpresa! Sorry Holly and Jeff.

When I got home, Mama told me that it was my cousin's 1st birthday (that would be my 6th birthday celebration in the Dor) and we were going to my abuela's house for a little party. If you didn't believe me before, here's proof that Ecua babies are the cutest in the entire world. Donato's on the left (18 months) and Saulito is on the right (1 year!).

I hung out with my uncle and some of his friends later that night. Then, this morning I got up early and Anneke, Emeline, and I went biking down Cotapaxi, the world's tallest active volcano. (Yes, I said biking.) We started at the top wearing every piece of clothing we owned with sleet stinging our face as we rode down. But by the time we got to the bottom, it was beautiful, we got to see a non-cloudy view of the volcano, and it was warm enough to be in a T-shirt. #winning. The ride down was gorgeous, we had an awesome lunch, and we met some really cool people. There were 3 students from Europe in our group who are in the Dor doing a gap year and then a French guy who is looking into business opportunities here. And our guide spoke Spanglish the entire time, perhaps the only language I am fluent in right now, which was hilarious.

"What are men compared to rocks and mountains?" --Pride and Prejudice

But probably one of the absolute greatest parts of my weekend: UNC WON and d00k LOST!!!! (basically a double win for the heels! #goheelsgoamerica)

Oh yea, and I didn't actually get a tattoo. I went with Jenny to get hers. Yay for spontaneity! You are welcome Holly and Jeff.

Dia de Pi

Ok, so I know I'm a day late. But there's a reason.

I'm not a pie person. I'll take cake or cookies or ice cream (mmmm ice cream) any day over pie. I know, I know, that makes me un-American. "Wait, you like apple pie though right?" NO WAY! That might be my least favorite kind.

Anyway. Yesterday was Pi day, and I didn't celebrate with pie. Sacrilege. I know. But today I found out that there is no Pi day in the Dor. What?! Everyone in Latin America writes dates backwards: day/month/year, so there is no 3/14. Now I wish I had eaten pie and brought pie (as in pizza pie...I'm a cheater, get over it.) to my classes to share the magic and joy that is Pi day with all the Ecuas. Well, I suppose there's always next time....that I happen to be in the Dor on March 14th. It could happen.

Cafe con Juliana

Something dreadful has happened. I, T-Capucha (google-translate it.), have become a coffee snob. "What? No! This can't be happening." I know my friend. I'm just as sad and shocked as you are.

Here's the thing. I've never been a big coffee drinker...and I'm still not. But I have learned to appreciate a cup of coffee now and again (thanks to the free coffee every Sunday morning at my church with the super sugary creamer!). But tonight when Juliana and I had our Spanglish date (I teach her some English, she teaches me some Spanish...its awesome), I ordered cafe con leche and for the first time ever I thought there was too much leche and not enough cafe. (They really should have called if leche con cafe cause that was like a drop of coffee in a cup of milk.)

I don't know what's the matter with me. Too much milk? Normally, this is what my coffee looks like in the States:

You think I'm kidding. I'm not.

I guess I'm just going to have to face it: I'm starting to like the taste of coffee.

Who am I? What is the Dor doing to me?

Existential crisis going on here.

Un Besito

That is how every text, phone conversation, and facebook message ends in Spanish. Un besito. (a little kiss). And it's also how every face-to-face interaction begins and ends. It took so much getting used to. I'm not talking about 1 or 2 kisses a day, I'm talking tens, hundreds, thousands...ok not that many, but a lot.

You kiss someone to say hello (whether or not you have a conversation with them...you could just be passing by each other). You kiss them to say goodbye. You kiss anyone in the group around you (stranger and friend alike). You kiss them cause they're pretty, you kiss them cause their name ends in a vowel, you kiss them because the sun is out, you kiss them because you're hungry...

One of the most amusing things to watch is someone approach a group of people, because when they walk up they go around to each individual and give them a kiss, say a few words, and then before they leave make the rounds again. (It's even funnier when the group is around a table because then the person has to fenagle chairs and awkward sitting/standing kisses.) Or like when I went to the pastor's house for Bible study, before we left, you had to go around and kiss everyone goodbye. All 20 or so people kissed the other 20 or so. Math whizzes out there, how many kisses went down in that room?

And there's different types of kisses which I've decided tell you a lot about the person's personality. There are the people who go cheek to cheek and kind of kiss the air--very European, very friendly, very casual. There are those who won't make any contact at all with you and just kiss the air--super shy, afraid of what you think of them because you're a gringa and they know the whole kissing thing is new to you. Others will plant one on you, you can't even really kiss them back because their face is like perpendicular to yours--bold, possibly trying to get with a gringa, usually the full-of-themselves types.

Another kissing rule: girls always get kissed...it's simple. Boys and girls give girls kisses. Boys give boys handshakes. Though I think that's kind of dumb. Be a man. Pucker up.

Heads up: when I get back stateside, I will be greeting you with un besito. Get ready.

Tiputini

Where do I even begin? 4(ish) days in the Amazon Rainforest. Here we go.

Tiputini is a research station our in the middle of nowhere--I've literally never been so far from civilization--in the Amazon which is home to more biodiversity than anywhere else on the planet. The journey there included a 30 min. plane ride, a 2 hour motorized canoe ride, 2 hours in a chiva, and another 2 hours in a motorized canoe, plus some waiting in between (including a few hours in the waiting area of a hotel with parrots, guinea pigs, peacockes, and monkeys that just roamed the property...what??). 9 hours later, we finally made it! (It's hard to believe in a country the size of Oregon it would take 9+ hours to get anywhere, but that is how remote this place is.) That first night we learned the ropes (minimal electricity, no hot water, biodegradable shampoo/conditioner/soap/toothpaste/deodorant/all-in-one, etc.), ate some dinner, and hit the sack.

Boat numero uno.

J: How do you get the monkey to come to you?

T: Just stick your arm out and make kissing noises.

J: If only it were that easy to get a man.

Days started at 6:30am with breakfast. There were 15 of us, so we split into 3 groups for the activities every day. Our guide's name was Jose and he was AWESOME! Saturday morning my group headed out to the laguna. Jose paddled us around in the canoe and showed us all kinds of wildlife. I don't think I've ever been somewhere so silent, and so loud at the same time. The jungle noises were amazing, but everything felt so still and quiet. Absolutely incredible. We hiked about 2.5 hours back to camp through the rainforest. Jose would stop every once in a while mid-stride and say "There, look there. Do you see it?" "See what?" "The frog, right there?" "Where? Oh you mean the one the size of my fingernail, the exact color of the leaves, not moving at all, 10 feet away from you? Oh yea. Of course I saw that." I swear he was born with special animal-spotting talents. During the walk he made us friendship bracelets out of something similar to bamboo and showed us a fruit that would tint our skin for a few days--so we all got jungle tats. Mine was supposed to be an alpaca, but it became a cave-drawing-esk version of a llamasaur gracias a Jenny's fine art skills!

La laguna

Amigos para siempre!

Rockin' the carolina-blue hipster oves. A true woman of the jungle.

Sad news. He didn't become a prince.

We got some time to eat and nap before heading out again. This time to el torre--the tower. We climbed up about 50m (150 ft) of scaffolding to reach a platform in a tree. We sat up there for hours just looking at birds and ants (I've never seen so many species of ants...some the size of my pinky finger) and all kinds of things, taking in the breath-taking view of the canopy. On the way back Jose continued to teach us about the rainforest and showed us a really cool tree with special ants living inside of it that gave off an acid that killed every other kind of tree allowing this one to survive. The acid gives them a lemon-y flavor, so we all go to taste some. Everyone had a few, but when Jose asked who was going to stick their tongue on the branch to get the rest....and there were no volunteers....I figured, you only live once, might as well eat some ants. Just call me Reina de Las Hormigas (Queen of the Ants). But really. I killed their future queens. So now I'm queen.

Con Jose!

Reina de Las Hormigas

That night it poured rain for 12 hours straight, but it cooled everything off so we didn't mind. In the morning we headed out again. This time for the canopy--pretty much high ropes on steroids. There were a bunch of rope bridges up above the canopy (once again talkin' around 50m if not more) which I loved. It was hilarious running across them and terrifying the other girls in the group. Is that mean? Oops. At the end of one there is a ladder bolted to a taller part of the tree and a tiny platform at the top. No netting. Just a carabiner and a ladder, and a really long drop if you fall. One of the girls was so scared (poor thing) and started singing Phantom of the Opera, High School Musical, and Little Mermaid to calm her nerves. What a great combination. "I've never laughed so hard in a tree." --J.K.

Ain't about how fast I get there. Ain't about what's waitin' on the other siiiiiiiiddde. It's the climb. --Miley

RAVE-ing in the jungle with my tat.

Runnin' dat bridge.

After the canopy Jose found us a good Tarzan vine so we spent some time swinging through the jungle making George of the Jungle calls. (I can't believe this is actually my life.) After lunch and nap we headed out for the river float. With life vests on, we took to the water and spent an hour or so floating down the river. Oh right, I forgot to mention that in this river are caymans (small crocodiles), phiranas, anacondas, and a fish that will swim up your stream of urine and lodge itself in your body if you pee. But, no big deal...we just went swimming.

After dinner they took us out on the boat to look for caymans. We didn't actually see any, but we saw a bunch of monkeys and snakes and bats which were really awesome. Also, I have never in my life seen so many stars. You could see exactly where the clouds were in the sky because the rest was so lit up by stars. One of the most beautiful things I've ever seen.

Got up early this morning and spent the next 10 hours getting home. Incredible weekend in the Dor.

Dia de La Mujer

Ok, so you know how there are all those random national holidays that no one celebrates except for a few weirdos who just happen to know what's going on? For instance, I always love celebrating National Eat Ice Cream for Breakfast Day, National Hug a Tall Person Day, and National Man Watcher's Day...but no one ever believes me when I tell them what I'm celebrating because I'm the weirdo. (For a complete list of random national holidays see http://www.louderbacks.com/home/dict/days.html).

Well, today is National Women's Day, and apparently its a really big deal in the Dor. Almost every boy I talked to today said "Happy Women's Day", the owner of the restaurant where I ate lunch gave me and my friend roses, there were marches in downtown, and everyone made excuses for girls today like "well since it's your day I suppose it's ok." I am all about celebrating, but I was not ready for this. A national day that everyone in the nation actually celebrates?? Que extrano.

Dia Sin Clases

La U had a teacher workday today. Yea, remember those? And nap time? Gosh, those were the days.

Tio Alex had this awesome idea of making sanduches and passing them out to la gente pobre around Quito. So he and Maria Jose (his novia), her best friend Andrea, and I all went over to MaJo's house to make sanduches and then went around Quito giving them away to anyone we could find that seemed to need a lunch. The longer I've lived in the city the more I think I've started to ignore the poverty that surrounds me. I don't even notice it that much anymore. So today it was really cool to go out in search of it and realize just how much need there was around me.

We all went to a pizza joint for lunch, ate awesome ginormous ice cream cones (notice mine is nearly gone...self-control around ice cream is one of my many talents), and then headed back to a park near MaJo's house where us gringos taught the Ecuas how to play frisbee. I'm not very good, but I miss it a lot! I've never seen an Ecua play frisbee...occasionally there are some gringos playing the park, but even that's rare. That was followed by swings--aka my favorite playground accessory. I swear I could swing for hours. I need to find some near Chapel Hill.

Also fun fact I learned at the park today: there are blonde Ecuas. Who knew?

We hung out at MaJo's house for a while and then we wen to a bible study with her mom. It was at the pastor's house of the Spanish church I went to. We all ate tomales de papas (basically mashed potatoes with chicken and veggies...reeeal good!) and then sang some songs and walked through scripture. It was so exciting to understand what was going on and be able to worship the Lord in Spanish. Today was about our words and how we need to use them to glorify the Lord. I've been really convicted of that lately--that I use my words to talk about myself, or to glorify myself, or in ways that don't encourage others, and the Lord has been teaching me so much. Speaking only Spanish means that I literally have to think through everything I say. It's coming easier for sure, but still it makes me realize what's important to say, and what I need to keep to myself. So please be praying that for me--that I'll glorify the Lord with my words and magnify the gospel; and I'd encourage you all to check out James 3:3-12. It's convicting and just such an awesome reminder of how much our words really do define us.

La Noche de Trivia

Every Tuesday night there is Trivia Night at a bar in Mariscol (gringolandia). All of the trivia is in English, but there is an awesome mix of gringos and ecuas. Tonight, a friend from one of my classes invited me so I headed out to see what it was all about. My team was not very committed to the game and lost terribly, while my friend's team took first place. But, I got to meet a ton of Ecuas and just hang out with different gringos than usual. I love my friends here, but it was great knowing I could go out and have a good time with people I didn't know.

Life skill #127: knowing how to hang out with strangers in bars

CHECK!

Going on the resume.

Banos!

This past weekend the gang went to Banos. (Yep. We went to the bathroom. That's the whole post. Kidding.) Banos is the extreme tourism center of Ecuador--they have everything from puenting (essentially bungee jumping) to canyoning. Juliana (my new Ecua friend) took the weekend off of work and came with us, so we got to practice a lot of Spanish. Me encanta! I'm pretty sure she thinks I'm 100% loca, but she survived the trip!

We took a 4 hour bus ride out to Banos and got there in time to find our hostel, almorzar (lunch), and look at the different adventure companies. We practiced a little repelling with the cute guides and then a few of us took off hiking to the virgin. (There are so many virgin statues in the Dor...) It was a long hike of straight up stairs (literally....so steep. I may or may not have resorted to the bear crawl.), but the view from the top was incredible!

That night we headed out and I was so glad Juliana was there! She was so excited to dance (and if you know me at all, you know I'm all about bustin' white girl moves!) and so she and I took over the dance floor. OK, not really...but she did teach me some moves and we had a blast!

(Also, when you think dance, think salsa and the sprinkler, not hip hop music video! I ain't got Beyonce's rhythm and I definitely ain't got her booty.)

Saturday we got up early and headed out canopying (waterfall repelling) in our awesome wet suits--a fashion statement I plan on bringing back to the states for obvious reasons. The waterfalls were gorgeous and it was incredible getting to be right in the middle of them!

We almorzar-ed again before some of us decided to bike (yes, bike. stop laughing. I'm serious. see evidence below) to Pailon del Diablo, an enormous, beautiful waterfall for the afternoon. However, as soon as we paid for our bikes, it started raining. We did our best, but in the end, Anneke and I were cold, wet, and miserable, and turned back. The boys kept going (of course they did) and we went to get cafe con leche y chocolate caliente at Casa Hood (my house!!!!). I'd say we got the better end of the deal. We went back the next morning in a chiva and hiked to the waterfall, so we still got to see it!

Saturday night was the dOOK game, and by that I mean it was the dOOK-getting-its-butt-whooped-by-UNC game. Determined to live it up, we got the biggest, juciest burgers I've seen since arriving in the Dor, took over the internet room in the hostal, made a lot of noise (and maybe a few people angry) and cheered our team to an 18pt victory in Cameron Stadium. #goheelsgoamericagotheDor

Muchas Cosas, Poco Tiempo

Today was loco. I had a test (Yes, a real test...one I actually had to study for. See? I do go to real school here!), a Spanish paper about a movie I forgot to watch until yesterday, 2 spanish stories to read, and a summary to write. All in one day. What? (OK, my procrastination may or may not have played a big role in all of this piling up.)

Then, when I got home, I found out it is Mama Susi (mi abuela)'s birthday!! (For those of you who are counting, that makes 5 birthday celebrations in the Dor.) The whole family (20 of us!) went out to the nicest Pizza Hut I've ever seen, ate a ton of pizza and cake, drank wine (who am I kidding? I could barely take 2 sips. #wishiwereclassy), and watched the kids pound a pinanta! (Americans do pinatas way better than Ecuas. We actually get to swing at it. Here they just pour out the candy and let the kids punch an empty pinanta. The gringos do it better--for once!)

Also, here's shout out to 4th floor Ruffin!!! That's where the party's at!!

Special shout out to Dung and Mary--still love you guys!